Best Extra Heavy Duty Door Closer

Most closers that fail early were simply undersized for the door. If you have already replaced the same closer twice, moving up to an extra heavy duty unit is usually cheaper than a third replacement of the same thing.

What "extra heavy duty" should mean

Like "heavy duty", the phrase has no legal definition, so check for these specifications rather than trusting the label:

• Cast iron body: stronger and more rigid than a light alloy shell. See cast iron vs aluminum.
• Wrought or forged steel arm: the arm takes the shock when a door is yanked open or grabbed by wind.
• Heat-treated piston: keeps the hydraulic seal working through heavy use and temperature swings.
• Grade 1 testing: the DRIWON DN-9500, for example, is rated to ANSI/BHMA A156.4 Grade 1 and tested past 2 million cycles.
• Corrosion-resistant finish: powder coating protects a closer on outdoor or humid doors.

Which doors need extra heavy duty?

• Steel and iron security doors, including doors around 400 lbs.
• Main entrances at schools, factories and restaurants, where a door may cycle hundreds of times a day.
• Exterior doors on the windward side of a building. Here in the Texas Panhandle, that is a long list. See exterior door closers.
• Doors that get kicked, propped or forced by carts and hand trucks.

Before you order: check the frame

A stronger closer puts more load on whatever it is bolted to. The DN-9500 weighs about 12 lbs, so thin frames or soft wood need proper attachment. One installer who reviewed it pointed out that the large screws could split a thin frame. Pre-drill, and use through-bolts where the door or frame is not solid. Worn hinges will also undo the benefit of a good closer, so replace them first.

See the DRIWON DN-9500 extra heavy duty closer on Amazon →

Is it overkill for your door?

If the door is under 36" wide, inside and lightly used, an extra heavy duty closer adds cost without adding much. Our heavy duty vs extra heavy duty comparison shows where the line falls. And remember that spring power is adjustable, so turning a big closer down is possible but it will not make it smaller on the door.

The real cost of under-buying

A closer looks like a small purchase, but the labor is usually what hurts. Here is a simple example. Suppose a $60 closer on a busy steel door fails every three years, and each swap costs an hour of paid time. Over twelve years, that is four closers and four service calls. A $170 closer that lasts the whole twelve years wins easily, before you count the disruption of a door that will not latch, or a security problem overnight.

That math works only on doors that truly wear out closers. On a light-use door, a cheap closer may outlast the building lease, so spend your money where the abuse is.

How an extra heavy duty closer behaves day to day

People expect a large closer to feel stiff, but a well-set one should feel controlled rather than heavy. The door opens with steady resistance, moves through the sweep at a constant speed and finishes with a firm, quiet latch. If it feels like wrestling, the spring is set higher than the door needs. Turn it down and test again.

Spring size 6 is not a target. It is the upper limit. Most doors run happily somewhere in the middle of the range, and running below the maximum is easier on the piston and on the hands of everybody using the door.

Install checklist

• Confirm the door handing and the arm style against the template.
• Check that the top rail has enough flat surface for the closer body.
• Have a second person hold the closer while you start the fasteners. At about 12 lbs, it is awkward from a ladder.
• Pre-drill to the recommended size, and use the through-bolts if the door is hollow or thin.
• Do not fully tighten until everything lines up.
• Connect the arm with the door closed, then set speed and latch.

Frequently asked questions

← Back to Heavy Duty Door Closers