Exterior Door Closers for High Wind

In Borger, nobody needs convincing about wind. A 36" door is about 21 square feet of sail. A strong gust can push harder than any spring, and when it does, the arm, the frame and the hinges take the hit. A closer alone cannot solve that, but the right setup makes it manageable.

What exterior doors ask of a closer

• More power: go one size up from the interior figure in the size chart.
• Weather resistance: powder coat protects against rust and grit.
• Temperature tolerance: cold oil moves slowly, and hot oil moves faster.
• Strong arm: steel arms handle wind shock better than light ones.

Protecting the door from wind

Backcheck

It slows the door in the final part of its opening swing. It helps with a gust but cannot absorb a full-on hurricane force. On the DRIWON range, backcheck is specifically listed on the DN-8220.

Add a stop

An overhead stop or a wall or floor stop takes the shock away from the closer. On windy sites, we consider it a must.

Think about the door's direction

A door that opens away from the prevailing wind can be pulled open by a gust. One that opens into it may be hard to open. A vestibule or wind screen can help if it is a serious problem.

Seasonal setup

Texas Panhandle temperatures can swing from below freezing to over 100°F. Expect to tweak the sweep and latch valves in spring and fall. Quarter turns are usually enough. Our adjustment guide shows you how.

Mounting tips for outdoor doors

• Mount on the inside of the door when you can, away from weather. A parallel arm keeps the closer inside on an outswing door.
• Seal any holes you drill through an exterior door.
• Check that exterior fasteners are not rusting.

Which closer for a windy door?

On a sheltered entrance, a Grade 1 heavy duty closer does the job. For a door that takes the full force of the weather, we would look at an extra heavy duty closer with a cast iron body, plus a stop. Compare options in our steel door guide too.

See the DRIWON DN-9500 on Amazon →

Exterior door checklist

• Which way does the prevailing wind blow relative to the door?
• Does the door open outward, into the wind's path?
• Is there any shelter, such as a canopy or wall return?
• Is there a stop to protect the arm?
• Is the closer inside or outside the building?
• Does the door have weather seals that add closing resistance?
• What is the frame made of? Can it take a sudden shock?

Signs that wind has damaged your door

Wind damage is usually easy to spot if you know what to look for. A bent arm is the obvious one. Other signs are elongated holes around the closer screws, a closer pulling off the door, a top hinge that has loosened, or a door that no longer lines up with its strike. If you see any of those, fix the cause as well as the symptom. Replacing an arm without adding a stop means you will probably replace it again after the next big gust.

Why more power is not always the answer

When a door will not close against the wind, it is tempting to crank up the spring. Up to a point, that works. Beyond that, the door becomes hard to open, and a strong enough gust will still push it. A better approach is to balance three things: enough spring to close the door in normal conditions, enough latch speed to carry it through weather seals, and a stop to protect the hardware on the worst days.

Weather seals and latching

Good weather seals are worth having in the Panhandle, because they keep out dust and drafts. They also push back against the door as it closes, which is often why an exterior door stops short. If that happens, a slightly faster latch speed may fix it. If not, add spring power in small steps. Adjust the strike if the door still has to be pushed that last inch.

We stock weatherstripping, sweeps and thresholds in Borger if you need to update the seals at the same time.

Frequently asked questions

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