In this guide
Quick answer: a hold-open closer uses a special arm that keeps the door open at a set angle until someone pulls it free. It is handy on non-rated doors, but mechanical hold-open arms are generally not allowed on fire-rated doors.
Deliveries, summer ventilation and busy lunch hours all make people want a door that stays open. A hold-open arm is the proper answer, rather than a wedge or a brick. The catch is that it depends on what the door is for.
How a hold-open arm works
A hold-open arm has a lock in the arm's joint or track. When the door opens to a set angle, a small mechanism engages and holds it there. A firm pull releases it. Most arms let you switch the feature off and set the hold-open point, usually between about 85 and 180 degrees depending on the arm and the mounting.
Where hold-open is, and is not, a good idea
| Door | Mechanical hold-open? |
|---|---|
| Fire-rated door | Generally no. Use an alarm-released holder. |
| Non-rated stockroom door | Usually yes |
| Delivery door | Usually yes, if not rated |
| Exterior door in wind | Caution: wind can break the arm |
| Security door | No, it should close and lock |
See our fire-rated closer guide to find out why these doors are treated differently.
What to know before you buy
- Hold-open is usually a feature of the arm rather than the closer body. Check that it is included.
- Check the arm's angle range against your wall or stop.
- Choose a strong arm. Hold-open arms take a lot of stress when somebody forces the door past the set point.
A note about DRIWON: the DN-8220 and DN-9500 listings do not advertise a hold-open arm. We recommend them for doors that should close by themselves. If you need hold-open, confirm with the seller first, or ask us about arm options.
Alternatives to a hold-open arm
- Delayed action: gives people more time without keeping the door open. See the adjustment guide.
- Electromagnetic holders: for rated doors that need to stay open and release on alarm.
- Automatic operators: for high-traffic accessible entrances.
Want to know how arm styles differ? Read about the parallel arm.
See this self-closing Grade 1 closer on Amazon →
Setting a hold-open arm
If you have a hold-open arm, setup usually goes like this:
- Install the closer and connect the arm according to the template.
- Open the door to the angle where you want it to hold.
- Find the adjustment nut or screw on the arm, and tighten it at that angle.
- Test by closing the door firmly by hand. It should release with a firm pull, not a yank.
- Use the arm's on/off selector, if it has one, to disable hold-open during colder months.
Keep the hold-open angle slightly short of any wall or stop, so that the arm is not taking a load when someone leans on the door.
Why hold-open arms break
A held door acts like a lever. If somebody pushes it past the set point, or if wind catches it, all that force goes through the arm's small locking mechanism. That is why an exterior hold-open arm on a windy site has a short life. In a location like ours, we would rather use a separate door holder, or skip hold-open altogether on the windward side.
What it costs
Hold-open versions of an arm generally add a modest amount to the price of a closer. An electromagnetic holder for a fire door is a bigger job, since it needs power and a connection to the alarm system, and an electrician or fire alarm contractor must do the work. Automatic operators cost much more. Choose based on what the door actually needs.
A better habit than propping
A wedge seems harmless, until it stays there during a fire, lets dust or heat pour in, or trips somebody. If your staff keep propping a door, treat that as a sign that the door has a problem. Maybe it closes too fast, is too heavy or is in the wrong location. Solving the real problem usually costs less than you would think.
Frequently asked questions
How do I make a commercial door closer stay open?
Are hold-open door closers legal on fire doors?
Can I add hold open to my existing closer?
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