In this guide
Quick answer: a regular arm mounts on the pull side and gives the most power. A parallel arm mounts on the push side, runs along the frame and looks tidy, but delivers a little less closing force, so you may need to go up a size.
The first thing to understand about arms is that they are tied to which side of the door you see. If you want the closer on the inside of an outswing door, you are looking at a parallel arm or a top jamb mount.
Three ways to mount a closer
| Regular | Parallel | Top jamb | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Closer sits on | Door, pull side | Door, push side | Frame, push side |
| Power reaching door | Highest | Lower | Moderate |
| Appearance | Arm sticks out | Tidy | Tidy |
| Vandal resistance | Lowest | Highest | Moderate |
| Good for | Interior doors, maximum power | Schools, storefronts, public doors | Narrow top rails |
Why a parallel arm has less power
It comes down to leverage. With the arm folded along the frame, the closer has a poorer angle on the door, especially near the closed position. Most manufacturers suggest setting a parallel arm one size stronger, and our size chart shows the base figures.
Which should you choose?
- Choose parallel arm on public buildings and schools, or where an exposed arm could be pulled on or be a head-height hazard.
- Choose regular arm when you need maximum power and do not mind the look.
- Choose top jamb when the door's top rail is too narrow, as on many glass storefronts.
Parallel arm brackets
A parallel arm needs a shoe or bracket on the frame's soffit. The DRIWON DN-8220 includes a parallel arm bracket, so you do not have to source one separately. Check the frame stop's width before you start, because a narrow stop may require a different bracket.
See the DN-8220 with parallel arm bracket on Amazon →
After installation
Changing the arm changes how the closer behaves, so re-time the closing speed. See how to adjust a door closer.
How to install a parallel arm closer
- Choose the correct template. Parallel arm layouts differ from regular arm layouts, and they vary by door swing.
- Mark the door and the frame soffit. The closer goes on the door. The bracket goes on the underside of the frame's stop.
- Mount the bracket. Use the supplied fasteners, and add rivet nuts in thin frames.
- Mount the closer body. Use through-bolts if the door is hollow.
- Connect the arm. Preload the arm according to the instructions, so the door has force when closed.
- Set spring power. Expect to go one size above the regular arm setting.
- Tune the sweep and latch, then test the door for latching and force.
The preload step is the one people miss. If the arm is connected without it, the door may stop short of latching, and you may wrongly blame the closer.
Checking your frame stop
The parallel arm's bracket sits on the soffit of the stop, so the stop has to be deep enough. Measure it before ordering. If the stop is narrow, you might need a special bracket or a different arm. If the frame is hollow aluminum, plan on blind fasteners instead of wood or sheet metal screws.
How to pick an arm for an existing door
- Door swings toward the room where you want the closer: regular arm.
- Door swings away from the room where you want the closer: parallel arm or top jamb.
- Top rail is under about 4": top jamb, parallel with a drop plate or a special closer.
- Public area where the arm could be grabbed: parallel arm.
Parallel arms and accessibility
Since the closer has less leverage near the closed position, some people turn up the spring too much to help latching. That can push opening force past the ADA limit. Use the latch valve first. Increase spring power only if you have to.
Frequently asked questions
What is a parallel arm on a door closer?
Which is stronger, a regular arm or a parallel arm?
Can I convert a regular arm to a parallel arm?
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