In this guide
Quick answer: glass doors in an aluminum frame usually take a surface closer mounted to the frame with a top jamb or parallel arm setup. Frameless glass doors generally need a floor closer or a special patch-fitting system.
Glass entrances are the face of many businesses. They also tend to get a lot of traffic. First find out what kind of glass door you have, because that determines the kind of closer you can use.
Which kind of glass door do you have?
| Door type | Top rail | Likely closer |
|---|---|---|
| Aluminum storefront | Narrow, 2" to 4" | Surface closer, top jamb or parallel arm |
| Wide-stile aluminum | Taller | Surface closer on the door |
| Frameless tempered glass | None | Floor closer or patch fittings |
Solving the narrow top rail problem
A closer needs enough flat metal behind it. Storefront doors often do not have that. Your options are:
- Top jamb mount: the closer goes on the frame with the arm on the door.
- Parallel arm: the closer stays on the door, and the arm runs along the frame's stop face. See parallel arm mounting.
- Drop plate: an adapter plate gives you a surface to mount on.
Fastening to aluminum
Aluminum frames are hollow. Use rivet nuts or the blind fasteners your closer maker recommends. Screws into thin extrusions will loosen quickly. If you can, reuse existing reinforced mounting positions.
Settings for a storefront
- Use backcheck, as a glass door hitting a stop can break.
- Set the door to close slowly. A customer's hand on a glass door is at risk.
- Keep ADA needs in mind. See the ADA guide.
- Exterior storefronts in wind need more power and maybe an overhead stop.
Choosing a finish
Match the closer to the frame: silver with clear anodized aluminum, or black commercial door closers with dark frames. Our guide to closer finishes covers the options.
See this storefront door closer on Amazon →
Do you have a concealed closer?
Many storefronts already have a closer you cannot see. A concealed overhead closer sits inside the aluminum header above the door, and an arm runs along a track in the top of the door. If you see no surface closer, but the door still closes, look at the header. Replacing a concealed unit usually means a similar concealed unit, not a surface closer, unless you are willing to change the look of the door.
Floor closers are another hidden option. They sit under the threshold on frameless doors. Replacement generally requires a specialist, particularly if the door pivot has to be removed.
Replacing a surface closer on a storefront
- Note the arm type and photograph the installation.
- Support the door and disconnect the arm.
- Remove the closer and keep the fasteners. They may be specialized.
- Compare the hole pattern with the new template.
- Use rivet nuts or the proper blind fasteners for new holes in aluminum.
- Install, then set the speed slower than you think you need.
Safety on glass doors
Commercial glass doors should be safety glazed, usually tempered or laminated, but they are still vulnerable at the edges. Any door that can swing freely into a wall or a rack can crack. A closer with backcheck plus a door stop protects the glass and the hinges. If the door faces wind, the risk is even greater, so see our exterior door guide.
Bumps and fingers matter too. A glass door that closes too quickly can catch people by surprise, because they can see through it and assume that it will stay open. Set a slower sweep than you would on a solid door.
Weight of a storefront door
Aluminum and glass doors are often heavier than they look. A typical 3' × 7' door with 1/4" glass may weigh 100 to 150 lbs, and with insulated glass it can be heavier. That usually falls within the range of a size 3 or 4 setting, and an exterior door may go one size up. Go by the size chart, and test the force on the door afterward.
Frequently asked questions
Can you put a door closer on a glass door?
What is the best closer for an aluminum storefront door?
What is a drop plate?
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