In this guide
Quick answer: a hollow metal or steel door should have a Grade 1 hydraulic closer, fixed with machine screws into factory reinforcement or through-bolts. Steel doors usually weigh 100 to 150 lbs at a typical 3' × 7' size.
The hollow metal door is the standard for back doors, schools and warehouses. Good doors like these often have a reinforced area under the top rail. The closer is only as good as what it is fastened to, so start there.
Mounting a closer on a steel door
Check for reinforcement
Commercial hollow metal doors are often prepared with a steel reinforcement in the top rail. If it is there, use machine screws into tapped holes.
No reinforcement? Use through-bolts
Hollow metal skins are thin. Sheet metal screws alone will strip out under repeated use. Through-bolts that pass right through the door are the fix.
Frame side
Steel frames are thin too. For a parallel or top jamb arrangement, confirm the frame's reinforcement or use rivet nuts where appropriate.
Sizing for steel doors
A steel door may be heavier than the width alone suggests, especially if it is insulated or has a lead or security lining. Most fall into size 3 or 4, and more for exterior doors. Check the door closer size chart.
Which closer suits a steel door?
For a typical hollow metal door, a Grade 1 closer like the DRIWON DN-8220 is a sensible choice. It is designed for metal and wood doors and it includes a parallel arm bracket. For exposed or heavily abused doors, or for doors with a history of closer failures, consider the cast iron DN-9500.
Fire-rated metal doors
Many steel doors have a fire label on the hinge edge. If yours does, the closer must be listed and the preparation must follow the listing. Read the fire-rated closer guide first.
Exterior steel doors
A steel door in a metal building can act like a sail. If it faces the wind, see our guide to exterior door closers.
See this closer for metal doors on Amazon →
Installing a closer on a hollow metal door
- Tape up the template. Use the correct side for your door swing and arm type.
- Mark and center punch. Steel skins can make a drill bit wander.
- Drill the right size. Use a sharp bit, go slowly and use a little oil on thick steel.
- Tap or through-bolt. Use machine screws for reinforcement and through-bolts for thin skins.
- Fit the closer and the arm shoe, then connect the arm with the door closed.
- Set spring, sweep and latch, and test with the door hardware in place.
Take your time with step one. Getting the door swing wrong puts holes in the wrong place on a door that cannot easily be patched.
Common problems with steel doors
| Symptom | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Closer pulling away | Screws in thin metal | Through-bolts |
| Door will not latch | Frame out of square or hinges worn | Fix hinges, adjust strike |
| Door booms when closing | Fast latch, hollow door | Slow latch, add door silencers |
| Rust around holes | Bare metal exposed | Prime and paint before mounting |
Steel doors in metal buildings
Around the Panhandle, plenty of shops are metal buildings with steel man doors. These frames can be lighter than a commercial hollow metal frame. The frame is often the weak point rather than the door. If the frame flexes when you pull on it, add blocking or reinforcement, or use a closer that mounts on the door with a regular arm, so that the frame takes less load.
Noise
Steel doors can be loud. A slam rings through a building. Slowing the latch and fitting rubber door silencers on the frame fix most of it. Check that the closer is doing its work before you blame the door.
If you need fasteners, we stock bolts, nuts and machine screws in Borger, and we can help you pick the right drill bits.
Frequently asked questions
What kind of screws do I use for a closer on a metal door?
How much does a steel door weigh?
Can I drill into a fire-rated steel door to fit a closer?
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